Burano is a small island in the Venetian lagoon. Most visitors come for the painted houses. Fewer know that the island was once famous across Europe for something much finer: needle lace. Local lacemakers called one style punto in aria, or “stitch in the air”, because it was sewn without any base fabric.
This guide explains how Burano lace was made, how to see it today, and how to buy a real piece. It also covers other handmade things worth bringing home from Italy.
What does “punto in aria” mean?
Punto in aria is Italian for “stitch in the air”. Most lace-making and embroidery needs a cloth to hold the stitches. Needle lace of this kind does not. The lacemaker first draws a pattern on paper or parchment. She then stitches an outline thread onto it, and builds the design with tiny knots made with a needle and a single fine thread.
When the work is finished, the threads that hold it to the paper are cut. What is left is a web of stitches that stands on its own. That is why the name fits so well. The lace seems to hang in the air.
The technique is slow. A single small piece can take many hours, and large pieces such as tablecloths or bridal veils could take months or even years. That is a big reason why genuine lace has always been expensive.
A short history of Burano lace
Lace-making in the Venetian lagoon goes back to the 1500s. Venetian lace was prized by courts and noble families across Europe. It trimmed collars, cuffs and church linen. Burano became one of the main centres, and many women on the island worked at it while the men fished.
A well-known local legend says the craft began with a young fisherman who resisted a mermaid’s song. As a reward, the mermaid touched his bride’s veil with her tail, and it turned into lace. It is a legend, not a record, but islanders still tell it.
The trade declined in the 1700s as fashions changed and other lace-making areas grew. It almost died out in the 1800s. In 1872, after a very hard winter left many island families short of money, a lace school was founded on Burano. It was set up by Countess Andriana Marcello and Paolo Fambri. The school taught young girls the old stitches and brought the craft back to life.
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Where to see Burano lace today
The best place to start is the Museo del Merletto, the Lace Museum, in the old lace school building on Piazza Baldassare Galuppi. It shows historic pieces, tools and patterns, and explains the different stitches. Opening days and hours change by season, so check the official Venice museums website before you go.
The museum is a good way to learn what to look for before you shop. Seeing old work up close helps you spot how fine the real thing is.
Elsewhere on the island you will find small shops selling lace. Some also have a lacemaker working in the window or at a table. If you can watch someone stitch for a few minutes, it is well worth it.
How to get to Burano
Burano is not connected to Venice by road. You travel by water.
- Vaporetto: Line 12 runs from Fondamente Nove in Venice to Burano. The journey takes about 40 minutes, and the boat usually stops at Murano and Mazzorbo on the way.
- Tickets: Single tickets cost more than a normal city ride, so a one-day or multi-day travel pass is often better value if you plan other trips.
- Time needed: Allow a half day. The island is tiny and easy to walk, but you will want time for the museum, lunch and the shops.
- Best time to go: Early morning or late afternoon. Midday in summer is busy because of day-trip groups.
If you are planning more time in the area, our guide to the tiny island near Venice that once dressed the courts of Europe goes deeper into the island’s story.
How to buy real Burano lace
This is the practical part. Much of the cheap “lace” sold in tourist areas is machine-made and imported. It can still be pretty, but it is not what Burano is known for. Here is how to shop with care.
- Ask directly. Ask whether the piece is handmade on Burano. A good seller will answer clearly and explain how long it took.
- Look at the price. A true handmade piece of any size costs a lot, because of the hours involved. A very low price is a warning sign.
- Check the stitches. Handmade lace has tiny, slightly individual knots. Machine lace looks perfectly even and often feels stiff or shiny.
- Buy small. If your budget is limited, a small handmade item such as a bookmark, a motif or a little edging is better than a large machine-made tablecloth.
- Ask for a receipt and a label. Some makers and shops provide a certificate or tag. Keep it with the piece.
Pack lace flat, in tissue paper, inside your hand luggage if you can. Keep it away from damp and direct sunlight at home.
What else to eat and see on the island
Burano is also known for its biscuits. Bussolà and esse are crisp, buttery rings and S-shaped cookies, and they travel well. They make a cheap, easy gift.
The houses are the other draw. A common story says that fishermen painted them in bright colours so they could find home in the fog. Today, owners have to follow local rules when they repaint, so the colours stay lively and varied. A walk along the canals near Via Galuppi and the quieter side streets gives you the best photos, with fewer crowds.
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Other handmade things to bring home from Italy
Lace is only one choice. Italy has many local crafts, and each region has its own. Here are some that are easy to find and easy to carry.
- Murano glass: Made on the island of Murano, next to Burano on the same boat route. Small beads and pendants are easier to pack than vases. Look for a maker’s mark or a certificate.
- Florentine leather: Wallets, belts and notebook covers made in workshops around Santa Croce. Ask to see the stitching and edges.
- Deruta ceramics: Hand-painted pottery from Umbria, sold by the town’s workshops.
- Marbled paper: Florence and Venice both have workshops making notebooks, cards and wrapping paper. It is light and cheap.
- Sorrento inlaid wood: Small boxes with patterns made from different woods.
- Venetian masks: Handmade papier-mâché masks from small studios, rather than factory plastic ones.
For more ideas on shopping for crafts, read our guide to Italian artisan crafts: leather, ceramics, glass and lace.
Tips for a good craft-shopping trip
- Visit workshops, not just shops. You pay a fair price and meet the maker.
- Take cash for small studios. Some do not take cards.
- Ask about shipping for big or fragile pieces. Many makers will post items home.
- Keep receipts. They help if customs ask questions on the way home, and some purchases may be eligible for VAT refunds if you live outside the EU. Check the current rules before you travel.
- Choose one special piece instead of lots of small souvenirs. You will value it for longer.
Your turn
What is the most special handmade thing you have ever brought home from Italy? A scrap of lace, a hand-painted plate, a leather bag? Tell us in the comments, and tell us where you found it.
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