Why Lucca Should Be on Your Italy Itinerary

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Lucca, one of Tuscany’s main towns, is a treasure full of history, culture, and flavour. Whether you’re interested in ancient Roman streets, grand churches, tasty local dishes, or exciting festivals, Lucca has something special to offer. Here’s why it deserves a place on your travel list.

A City with a Long History

Lucca has been around for more than two thousand years. It began as a small settlement for the Ligurians, then later became home to the Etruscans. Around 180 BCE, the Romans took over and built a colony here. You can still see their influence today, especially in the city’s street layout, which follows the Roman grid pattern.

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In the 6th century, Lucca became the capital of the Lombard Duchy of Tuscany. By the Middle Ages, it had grown into a powerful city-state. One of its most famous leaders was Castruccio Castracani, who ruled in the early 1300s. He was known for his strength in battle and strong leadership.

In the 16th century, Lucca built massive walls for protection. These were never used in war, and now they serve as a walking path around the city. In the 1800s, Lucca joined the new Kingdom of Italy. Today, it’s known for keeping its past alive with many historical sites.

Places You Shouldn’t Miss

Lucca Cathedral (Cattedrale di San Martino)

Lucca Cathedral, also known as the Cattedrale di San Martino, is a Roman Catholic church. It was founded in the 6th century and rebuilt in 1060 by Bishop Anselm, who later became Pope Alexander II. The façade features three large arches and is adorned with sculptures, including a statue of Saint Martin sharing his cloak with a beggar.

Inside, the cathedral houses the Volto Santo di Lucca, a cedar-wood crucifix believed to have been carved by Nicodemus, a contemporary of Jesus. The crucifix is enshrined in a small octagonal chapel built in 1484 by Matteo Civitali. The cathedral also contains notable artworks, such as Domenico Ghirlandaio’s Madonna and Child with Saints, Federico Zuccari’s Adoration of the Magi, and Jacopo Tintoretto’s Last Supper.

A unique feature of the cathedral is a labyrinth carved into a pillar of the portico, dating from the 12th or 13th century. The Latin inscription beside it refers to the myth of Theseus and the Minotaur, symbolising the spiritual journey of the faithful.

San Michele in Foro

San Michele in Foro is a Roman Catholic church. It was first mentioned in 795 and was rebuilt starting in 1070 under Pope Alexander II. The church was constructed over the ancient Roman forum, which is why it’s called “in Foro”.

The façade, completed in the 13th century, features a series of arches and columns, with a large statue of Archangel Michael at the top. Inside, the church has a nave and two aisles with a transept and semicircular apse. Notable artworks include a terracotta Madonna with Child by Luca della Robbia and a panel with Four Saints by Filippino Lippi.

Under the high altar lies the body of San Davino Armeno, an Armenian pilgrim who died in Lucca in 1050. He was later declared a saint, and his remains are among the oldest known mummified saints in Italy.

Guinigi Tower

The Guinigi Tower is a tall brick structure from the 14th century, standing at 45 metres. It was built by the Guinigi family, who were wealthy merchants and rulers of Lucca at the time. Back then, many rich families in Lucca built towers to show off their power. The Guinigi Tower is special because it has a garden with holm oak trees on its roof. These trees were planted to symbolise rebirth and renewal.

Today, the Guinigi Tower is one of the few remaining towers in Lucca. It is open to visitors who want to climb up its 230 steps and enjoy the view. The tower is a symbol of Lucca’s history and the legacy of the Guinigi family.

City Walls

Lucca’s city walls, known as the Mura di Lucca, are among the most complete and well-preserved Renaissance fortifications in Europe. Built between 1504 and 1648, these walls stretch over 4.2 kilometres and stand about 12 metres high. They were designed to protect the city from potential attacks, especially from the neighbouring Republic of Florence. Despite their defensive purpose, the walls were never used in battle. The only time they were tested was during a major flood in 1812, when they helped keep the city centre dry.

The walls are made of brick, stone, and earth, featuring 11 bastions and several gates. In the 19th century, they were transformed into a public promenade lined with trees. Today, both locals and visitors enjoy walking, cycling, and attending events on the walls, making them a central part of Lucca’s daily life.

Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

Piazza dell’Anfiteatro is a unique oval-shaped square, built on the remains of a Roman amphitheatre from the 1st or 2nd century AD. The original structure could hold around 10,000 spectators and featured 54 arches. Over time, the amphitheatre fell into disuse, and buildings were constructed over its ruins. In the 19th century, architect Lorenzo Nottolini redesigned the area, removing the inner buildings to create the current open space, which became a marketplace. 

Today, the square is surrounded by buildings that follow the ancient oval shape, preserving the historical footprint of the Roman structure. Visitors can enter through four gateways located at the ellipse’s vertices, and a cross in the centre marks the intersection of these entrances. The square is now a lively spot with cafes and shops, reflecting both its ancient origins and modern-day life. 

Festivals That Bring Lucca to Life

Lucca Comics & Games

Lucca Comics & Games, held annually from late October to early November, is Europe’s largest comic book and gaming convention, and the second largest globally after Japan’s Comiket. In 2022, the festival sold 319,926 tickets, surpassing its previous record from 2016. The event transforms Lucca’s historic city center into a hub for comics, games, cosplay, and fantasy enthusiasts. The 2024 edition featured posters designed by renowned Japanese artist Yoshitaka Amano, inspired by the works of composer Giacomo Puccini, marking the centenary of his death. The festival includes exhibitions, tournaments, concerts, and seminars, offering a diverse range of activities for attendees.

Lucca Summer Festival

The Lucca Summer Festival is an annual music event held in Lucca since 1998. It features a variety of music genres, including rock, pop, jazz, and electronic, attracting both international stars and local talents. The festival typically takes place in June and July, with performances held in Piazza Napoleone and occasionally along the city’s historic walls. 

What to Eat in Lucca

Tordelli Lucchesi
Tordelli Lucchesi are crescent-shaped pasta pockets filled with a mixture of ground beef and pork, Tuscan bread, Swiss chard, and spices. They are typically served with a hearty meat sauce made from onions, carrots, celery, beef, pork, garlic, pancetta, sage, cinnamon, nutmeg, red wine, tomatoes, and olive oil, then topped with grated Parmesan cheese.

Zuppa di Farro
Zuppa di Farro, or farro and bean soup, is a traditional dish from Lucca and the nearby Garfagnana area. This hearty soup combines borlotti beans and farro, an ancient grain, creating a thick and satisfying meal that showcases the simplicity and depth of Tuscan cuisine.

Buccellato di Lucca
Buccellato di Lucca is a sweet bread dating back to 1450, originally created to delight the city’s nobility. Made with raisins and anise seeds, this bread has a distinctive flavor and is traditionally shaped into a ring or loaf. The name “buccellato” comes from the Latin “buccella,” meaning morsel.

Rovelline Lucchesi
Rovelline Lucchesi is a traditional dish from the Lucca area, consisting of veal escalopes sautéed with tomato sauce, garlic (or a soffritto of onions, celery, and carrots), and capers. Originally, this dish was made using leftovers from Sunday lunch, showcasing the resourcefulness of Tuscan cooking. 

Castagnaccio
Castagnaccio is a dense, slightly sweet cake made from chestnut flour, raisins, pine nuts, walnuts, and rosemary. Originating in Tuscany, this cake has been part of Italian culinary history since Roman times and is best when made with local ingredients.

Necci
Necci are traditional Tuscan chestnut pancakes made from chestnut flour and water. In the Lucca area, chestnut trees were so prevalent that they were called “bread trees” due to their importance in the local diet. Necci are typically cooked on hot stones or iron plates and can be enjoyed plain or filled with ricotta cheese.

Wines from the Hills of Lucca

Colline Lucchesi DOC
The Colline Lucchesi DOC, established in 1968, encompasses the hills surrounding Lucca. This designation produces both white and red wines. The white wines are predominantly made from Trebbiano Toscano, complemented by varieties such as Greco, Grechetto, Vermentino, Malvasia, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. These wines are known for their straw-yellow hue and delicate aroma. The red wines primarily feature Sangiovese, blended with Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, and Merlot, resulting in ruby-red wines with a fruity and slightly herby taste.

Montecarlo DOC
Montecarlo DOC, located near the village of Montecarlo, boasts a winemaking tradition dating back to Roman times. The white wines here are notable for incorporating non-traditional Tuscan varieties like Sémillon, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Vermentino, Sauvignon, and Roussanne, alongside Trebbiano Toscano. These blends produce wines with a pale yellow color and a delicate, harmonious taste. The red wines are based on Sangiovese, enriched with grapes such as Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Colorino, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, yielding ruby-red wines with an intense aroma and a dry, velvety taste.

Vin Santo
Vin Santo, translating to “Holy Wine,” is a traditional Tuscan dessert wine often associated with Lucca. Produced from white grape varieties like Trebbiano and Malvasia, the grapes are dried for several months to concentrate their sugars before undergoing slow fermentation and aging in wooden barrels for many years. The resulting wine has a golden, amber hue with flavors of dried fruit, honey, apricot jam, and spices. Vin Santo is traditionally enjoyed with cantucci, a type of almond biscotti, which is dipped into the wine.

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When to Visit and How to Get There

Lucca is best visited between April and October. Summer can be hot (35°C in July and August), but the thick city walls create shade and the town never feels as stifling as Florence. If you can time it, late September offers warm days, thinner crowds and the grape harvest in the surrounding hills.

From Florence, take the regional train from Santa Maria Novella station. The journey takes 80 minutes and costs €8-10 each way. Trains run every 30-60 minutes. From Pisa, the train takes just 30 minutes and costs €3.60. Both routes are scenic and reliable.

By car, Lucca is well connected via the A11 motorway. Parking outside the walls costs €1-2 per hour. The car park at Porta San Donato is the largest and closest to the main sights. Do not attempt to drive inside the walls — the centre is restricted to residents only.

Most visitors come for a day trip, but Lucca rewards those who stay overnight. Hotels inside the walls range from €70-150 per night for a double room — significantly cheaper than Florence. The town has a different character after dark, when the day-trippers leave and the piazzas fill with locals having their evening passeggiata.

If you visit during Lucca Comics & Games (late October to early November), book accommodation months in advance. The festival fills every hotel within 30 km.

The Town That Refuses to Be Discovered

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Lucca has been hiding in plain sight for centuries. Surrounded by perfectly preserved Renaissance walls — now a tree-lined promenade where locals cycle and stroll — the town sits just an hour from Florence, yet most visitors never make it here. That suits Lucca perfectly. Without the crowds, the town retains a quality that Florence and Pisa lost decades ago: the feeling of a real Italian city going about its real Italian life.

Lucca is the kind of place where you come for an afternoon and stay for three days. The piazza built inside a Roman amphitheatre, the medieval towers you can climb, the bakery that has been making buccellato cake since the 1800s — none of it is trying to impress you, which is precisely why it does.

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