The Four Franciscan Sanctuaries Hidden in the Hills Above Rieti

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Most people who visit Italy tick off Rome, Florence, and Siena. A smaller number make it to Assisi, the hilltop town in Umbria where Saint Francis was born in 1181. Almost no one visits the Rieti Valley, just over the border into Lazio, even though some of the most important events in Franciscan history happened here.

Four sanctuaries dot the wooded hills around Rieti: Fonte Colombo, Greccio, Poggio Bustone, and La Foresta. Together they form the Cammino di Francesco — the Path of Francis — and you can see all four by car in a single day. Each one marks a moment in the life of a man who reshaped how Christianity understood poverty, nature, and devotion. If you enjoy small historic hill towns like Civita di Bagnoregio, the Rieti sanctuaries will feel like a natural next stop.

Why the Rieti Valley Mattered to Saint Francis

Francis came to the valley in the 1220s, in the later years of his life. By then his movement had grown beyond anything he expected. Hundreds of brothers had joined him. Meanwhile, the Church pressed him to formalise his community with a written rule. This isolated, forested valley gave him the quiet he needed to think, write, and pray.

Rieti itself is a mid-sized town with a well-preserved medieval centre. It sits at the edge of a broad plain fed by the River Velino. Nearby hills rise quickly, and most of the sanctuaries are no more than 20 minutes by car from the town centre. This landscape has barely changed in 800 years — the same oak forests, the same pale limestone outcrops, the same clear springs. Travellers who like a well-kept old centre often pair the visit with a day in San Gimignano further north.

Fonte Colombo — Where the Rule Was Written

Of the four sanctuaries, Fonte Colombo holds the most historical weight. In 1223, Francis came here with two trusted companions, Brother Leo and Brother Bonizo, and spent forty days fasting and writing. He produced the Regula Bullata, or Definitive Rule. Pope Honorius III confirmed it later that year, and it has guided the Franciscan Order ever since.

Builders set the site around a natural spring (fonte means “spring” in Italian) and a small cave cut into the hillside. This cave, known as the Grotto of Saint Francis, is where he did the writing. It runs roughly four metres deep and two metres wide. An iron grating covers the entrance, yet you can see clearly inside. A stone bench and a simple wooden cross form the only furnishings.

Above the cave, a 13th-century chapel holds an 18th-century fresco of Francis presenting the rule to Pope Honorius. Below the chapel, a shaded terrace looks out over the valley. Franciscan friars still live at the site today and welcome visitors between 8am and 6pm. Entry costs nothing.

One detail is worth knowing. Francis reportedly lost the original document, or someone stole it, on the journey to Rome. He returned to the cave and wrote the entire rule again from memory. What the Pope confirmed was the second version.

Greccio — Where the First Nativity Scene Was Created

The sanctuary at Greccio sits higher in the hills, about 25 minutes north of Fonte Colombo by car. It clings to a cliff face above the village of the same name. A steep path lined with Stations of the Cross leads up to it.

In 1223 — the same year he wrote the rule — Francis made something here that has lasted eight centuries. On Christmas Eve, he gathered local people and animals in a cave near the village and recreated the scene of Christ’s birth. This was the first living nativity in recorded history. The tradition of the presepe, the nativity scene shown in homes and churches across Italy and much of the world, traces straight back to this event.

The sanctuary itself is a lovely complex of linked chapels and cloisters, some from the 13th century. Its most significant room is the Chapel of the Presepe, built over the site of the original Christmas tableau. A small museum nearby holds medieval religious art and a few personal items linked to Francis. Views across the valley from the terraces are exceptional. Pilgrims who have stood in the crowds of St Peter’s Square in Rome often find this quiet cliff-top chapel far more moving.

Poggio Bustone — The Hill of Forgiveness

Poggio Bustone lies northeast of Rieti, above the village of the same name. Francis came here in 1208 or 1209, before his movement had grown to any real size. Tradition holds that while praying on the hillside he received a vision. In it, God forgave all his past sins and promised that his followers would grow to number in the thousands. He is said to have run down the hill shouting “Buona nova! Buona nova!” — “Good news! Good news!”

The sanctuary sits a 20-minute walk uphill from the village along a well-marked path. Its main chapel dates to the 16th century but wraps around an earlier cave cell where Francis stayed. A further climb brings you to the Grotto of the Revelation, higher on the hillside, where the vision is said to have occurred. Views from here take in the full width of the Rieti Valley.

La Foresta — The Miracle of the Vineyard

La Foresta is the easiest of the four sanctuaries to reach, just outside Rieti on the road towards Terni. It sits in a small wood beside a spring, with a modest church and convent attached.

Francis stayed here twice. The better-known story concerns a vineyard that belonged to the local priest. His followers trampled it when crowds gathered to see him. According to the accounts, the vineyard then recovered fully after the harvest, and that year’s wine beat all previous yields. This site stays quieter than the others and sees far fewer visitors. It rewards a stop for the simple Romanesque church and the peaceful grounds, even if you know nothing of the story.

How to Visit All Four Sanctuaries

A car is the most practical way to see all four. Trains reach Rieti from Rome Tiburtina in around one hour 45 minutes, but no public transport serves the sanctuaries themselves.

Here is a simple route from Rieti:

• Fonte Colombo — 20 minutes south of town; start here for the Grotto where Francis wrote the rule.
• Greccio — 40 minutes north of Fonte Colombo; allow time for the steep climb and the nativity chapel.
• Poggio Bustone — 25 minutes back south; a 20-minute uphill walk leads to the sanctuary.
• La Foresta — the last stop on the way back into Rieti; flat, quick, and quiet.

Allow at least half a day. A full day suits you better if you want to walk the hill paths at each site without rushing.

All four sanctuaries let you enter for free, though donations are welcome. Opening hours shift with the season, yet most sites open from early morning until 6pm. The friars at each spot are used to visitors who arrive without notice. A few tips make the day run smoothly:

• Wear sturdy shoes — several sites need a short, steep uphill walk.
• Carry water and a hat in summer; shade can be thin on the paths.
• Bring small change for donations, as card machines are rare.
• Start early to beat both the heat and the day-trip coaches.

Getting to Rieti

Rieti sits 79 kilometres northeast of Rome. By car, the drive takes around 90 minutes via the A24 motorway and the SS4 Salaria. By train, services run from Rome Tiburtina, and journeys last 1 hour 40 minutes to 2 hours depending on the service. No direct trains link Florence or other major cities to the town.

The town offers a good range of places to stay, from small hotels to agriturismi in the countryside around it. Local restaurants focus on the food of northern Lazio — hearty, unfussy, and very good value next to Rome. Visit in summer, and the late afternoon light on the Rieti Valley is worth lingering for.

These sanctuaries draw only a fraction of the visitors that Assisi pulls each year. For anyone keen on the history of one of the most enduring religious movements in the world, that relative quiet is part of the point.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many days do you need to visit the four Rieti sanctuaries?

You can see all four in a single day if you drive. Half a day covers the quick version, but a full day lets you walk the hill paths at Greccio and Poggio Bustone without rushing. Many visitors stay a night in Rieti and spread the trip over a morning and an afternoon.

Do the sanctuaries charge an entrance fee?

No. All four sanctuaries let you enter for free, and the friars welcome anyone who turns up. They do appreciate a small donation, so it helps to carry some coins, since card machines rarely appear at these sites.

Can you reach the sanctuaries by public transport?

Not easily. Trains link Rieti to Rome Tiburtina in about one hour 45 minutes, yet no bus or train serves the sanctuaries. A car gives you the freedom to link all four in one loop, which is why most visitors choose to drive.

When is the best time of year to go?

Spring and early autumn suit the walks best, when the hills stay green and the air feels mild. Summer works too, though you should start early to dodge the midday heat. Greccio draws its biggest crowds near Christmas, thanks to its link to the first living nativity.

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