Matera sits on the edge of a limestone ravine in Basilicata, one of Italy’s least-visited southern regions. It is famous for the Sassi: two districts of stone houses, cave homes and rock-cut churches. In 1993, UNESCO added the Sassi to its World Heritage List. In 2019, Matera took the title of European Capital of Culture.
People have lived in this landscape for at least 9,000 years. That makes Matera one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements on earth.
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What Are the Sassi of Matera?
Sassi means “stones” in Italian. Two districts make up the Sassi: Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano. They spread across the slopes of the Gravina ravine, below the old upper town known as the Civita.
Nobody built these homes in the usual way. Locals cut them from tufa, a soft limestone found across the region. Tufa is easy to carve, and it hardens in the air. That made it ideal for hollowing out homes, churches, stables and cisterns straight into the cliff. Families have used many of these openings since the Stone Age.
By the 1950s, around 15,000 people still lived in the Sassi. Many shared single rooms with their livestock. In 1952, the Italian government called the conditions a national disgrace and moved the residents to new housing across the ravine. Officials sealed the caves and left them empty for decades.
From the 1980s, attitudes changed. Restoration began in earnest. Today the Sassi hold hotels, restaurants, museums and private homes. The old architecture survives: rock-cut rooms, stairways carved in stone and cave mouths that face the ravine.
Sasso Caveoso: The Older District
Sasso Caveoso is the lower of the two districts. It faces the Gravina ravine head-on. As you walk, you pass open cave mouths at every level of the hillside. Many now serve as storage or private rooms. The lanes are steep and narrow, and builders cut them from the same stone as the houses.
The Church of San Pietro Caveoso stands on a terrace at the cliff edge. Builders raised it in the 13th century and altered it many times since. It looks straight over the ravine. Across the gorge you can see the rock churches of the opposite wall. Few church settings in southern Italy match it.
Nearby, two rock churches lie wholly inside the cliff face: Santa Maria de Idris and Santa Lucia alle Malve. Both keep Byzantine-era frescoes that have survived in the tufa for centuries. A combined ticket costs a few euros.
Sasso Barisano: The Larger District
Sasso Barisano is bigger and was historically the more desirable district. It faces north-west and gets more sunlight. You can see the difference in the buildings. They have more elaborate carved facades and small balconies on the cave entrances.
The main route descends from the Civita through a series of stepped lanes. Most of the restaurants and boutique hotels in the Sassi cluster here. If you want a place to eat or stay inside the cave districts, start in Barisano.
The Gravina Ravine
The Gravina di Matera runs along the eastern edge of the city. Over thousands of years, the Gravina river carved it. That river still flows at the bottom, though it carries far less water than it once did.
The ravine acts as a natural boundary. On the Matera side, the Sassi climb the slope. On the opposite wall, you can see dozens of cave openings. These were ancient rock-cut churches and hermit dwellings. You can reach them on foot if you cross at the bottom of the gorge. The walk takes about two hours, so wear sturdy footwear.
The view from the edge of the Civita across to the far canyon is the image most people link with Matera. Visit in the early morning or at dusk. The light on the limestone is direct then, and the shadows between the caves run deepest.
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The Cathedral
The Cathedral of Matera stands at the highest point of the Civita. You can see it from across the Sassi and from the opposite ravine. Builders used the Apulian Romanesque style in the 13th century. Its bell tower rises 52 metres and helps you find your bearings in the districts below.
Inside, you will find a 16th-century nativity scene carved in stone, plus several medieval frescoes. Worshippers still use it. Entry costs nothing, but you should dress modestly.
How to Get to Matera
Matera has no link to Italy’s main rail network. The closest major city is Bari, in Puglia, about 65 kilometres to the north-east. Our Great Italian Road Trip shows how Matera fits a longer southern route.
From Bari, you have three options:
- FAL railway (Ferrovie Appulo Lucane): Trains and connecting buses run from Bari Centrale to Matera Sud. The trip takes roughly 1 hour 30 minutes. Check timetables in advance, as services run infrequently.
- Coach: Direct buses leave Bari airport for Matera. The trip takes around 1 hour 15 minutes. It is often the easiest option if you fly in.
- Car: The drive from Bari takes about 1 hour via the SS99. A car gives you flexibility, but parking inside the Civita is limited. Use the car parks at the edge of the Sassi.
From Rome, the fastest route is by car or long-distance coach. Allow about 4 hours. No practical direct train runs.
When to Go
April, May, September and October suit Matera best. Summer, particularly July and August, runs hot and brings bigger crowds. Winter is quiet and cool, with short days. The stone city empties out, and prices drop.
The Festa della Bruna is Matera’s main annual celebration. It takes place on 2 July each year. A procession winds through the streets with an elaborate papier-mâché float. At the end, the crowd tears the float apart. The tradition has lasted over 600 years.
Where to Stay
Several hotels now use restored cave spaces inside the Sassi. They range from budget hostels to high-end design hotels with views over the ravine. Staying inside the Sassi is the best way to grasp the layout and scale of the districts. You will wake up in a cave that people lived in thousands of years ago.
Book well ahead for summer and for the Festa della Bruna. Outside peak season, you can find good rooms at fair prices. For other quiet corners of the south, see Italy’s Hidden Borghi.
Practical Information
- Entry to the Sassi: Free. You can walk through both districts without paying.
- Rock churches: A combined ticket covers the main churches inside the Sassi. Expect to pay around €5–10.
- MUSMA (Museum of Contemporary Sculpture): It sits in a restored palace inside the Sassi. Admission costs around €5.
- National Museum of Matera (Domenico Ridola): It covers the prehistoric archaeology of the region. The admission fee is small.
- Footwear: The lanes are stone, uneven and often steep. Wear solid shoes with good grip.
- Time needed: Allow one full day for both districts and the cathedral. Two days lets you also walk the ravine and visit the rock churches on the far wall.
Matera takes effort to reach. It lies on the way to nowhere else, and Basilicata draws a fraction of the visitors who flood into neighbouring Puglia or Campania. That is the point. The Sassi are not a theme park version of the past. They are the real thing: a living city on the bones of thousands of years of human life. If the south appeals, read about Italy’s great cheese traditions too.
Matera FAQs
How many days do you need in Matera?
One full day covers both Sassi districts and the cathedral. Two days gives you time to walk the Gravina ravine and see the far rock churches.
When is the best time to visit Matera?
April, May, September and October offer mild weather and fewer crowds. July and August get hot and busy.
How do you get from Bari to Matera?
You can take the FAL train and bus (about 1 hour 30 minutes), a direct coach (about 1 hour 15 minutes) or drive (about 1 hour via the SS99).
Is it free to walk around the Sassi of Matera?
Yes. Both districts are open to walk through at no cost. Only the rock churches and museums charge a small fee.
Can you stay overnight in a cave in Matera?
Yes. Several hotels use restored cave rooms inside the Sassi, from budget hostels to design hotels.
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