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Spaghetti all’Amatriciana Recipe: The Authentic Roman Pasta From Amatrice

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An authentic amatriciana recipe needs only five main ingredients: guanciale, pecorino romano, tomatoes, chilli and pasta. This Roman classic comes from the town of Amatrice, in the hills of Lazio. Cooks there keep it simple, and the result is rich, salty and gently spicy.

A plate of spaghetti in tomato sauce topped with chopped parsley
Photo by Mandy Bourke on Unsplash

What Is Spaghetti all’Amatriciana?

Spaghetti all’amatriciana is a pasta with a tomato sauce built on cured pork cheek. The cook crisps the guanciale in its own fat, adds tomato, and finishes the dish with sharp pecorino. Romans love it so much that they shorten the name to matriciana.

The sauce takes its name from Amatrice, a mountain town in the province of Rieti. It sits in the Apennines, a long way from the Roman coast. You will find the dish on almost every trattoria menu in Rome today, and it sits happily beside carbonara and cacio e pepe as one of the great Roman pastas.

A Short History of the Sauce

The story most cooks tell starts with shepherds. They walked the mountain pastures with food that kept well: cured pork cheek, hard sheep’s cheese and dried pasta. A white version of the dish, called gricia, uses only those three things plus black pepper. Many food writers see gricia as the parent of amatriciana.

Tomato came later. It reached Italy from the Americas, and it took time to become a staple in the kitchen. Once cooks added it to gricia, the red sauce we know today took shape. Nobody can name the exact year, so be wary of anyone who gives you one.

What is clear is the result. A good amatriciana tastes of pork fat, sweet tomato and a little heat. Every part has a job.

The Ingredients for Amatriciana

This amatriciana recipe serves four people. Buy the best ingredients you can find, because there are so few of them.

  • 400 g spaghetti or bucatini. Both work. Bucatini, the thick tube with a hole, holds the sauce well.
  • 150 g guanciale. This is cured pork cheek. Cut it into strips about 1 cm wide and 3 cm long.
  • 400 g peeled whole tomatoes. A tin of good plum tomatoes is fine. Crush them by hand.
  • 60 g pecorino romano, finely grated, plus extra to serve.
  • 1 small dried chilli (peperoncino), or a pinch of chilli flakes.
  • 50 ml dry white wine. This is optional. Some Roman cooks use it and some do not.
  • Salt for the pasta water. Taste the sauce before you add any more.

Why Guanciale and Not Bacon?

Guanciale comes from the pig’s cheek, and it is far fattier than bacon. It melts into the pan and gives the sauce a deep, sweet flavour. Pancetta works if you cannot find guanciale, and it is the usual swap. Smoked bacon is a poor choice, because the smoke takes over the dish.

Pecorino, Not Parmesan

Pecorino romano is made from sheep’s milk. It is sharper and saltier than Parmesan. Rome and Lazio use it in almost every classic pasta, and amatriciana is no exception. Use less salt in the pan because the cheese and the guanciale are both salty.

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How to Make Amatriciana, Step by Step

The whole dish takes about 30 minutes. Start the sauce first and boil the pasta while it cooks.

  1. Render the guanciale. Put the strips in a cold, wide frying pan. Turn the heat to medium-low. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes until the fat runs and the edges turn golden. Do not use any oil.
  2. Add the chilli. Drop in the dried chilli for the last minute. It will perfume the fat.
  3. Lift out the guanciale. Use a slotted spoon to move the crisp pieces to a plate. Leave the fat in the pan.
  4. Add the wine (optional). Pour it into the hot fat and let it bubble for about 1 minute.
  5. Add the tomatoes. Tip in the crushed tomatoes and a pinch of salt. Simmer on low heat for 15 minutes, stirring now and then, until the sauce thickens.
  6. Cook the pasta. Boil the spaghetti in well-salted water. Take it out 2 minutes before the packet time, because it will finish in the sauce. Save a cup of the pasta water.
  7. Bring it together. Return the guanciale to the sauce. Add the drained pasta and a splash of pasta water. Toss over the heat for 1 to 2 minutes.
  8. Finish with cheese. Take the pan off the heat. Stir in the pecorino. Serve at once with extra cheese on top.

Tips for the Best Amatriciana

  • Start the guanciale cold. A cold pan lets the fat melt slowly before the meat browns.
  • Keep the sauce short. Fifteen minutes is enough. Long cooking dulls the fresh tomato taste.
  • Use the pasta water. The starch helps the sauce cling to every strand.
  • Add the cheese off the heat. Pecorino turns stringy if it gets too hot.
  • Skip the garlic and onion. Many Roman cooks leave them out. Some families add a little onion, and that is a matter of taste.

Common Mistakes

Cooks often drown the dish in sauce. In Italy, the pasta is the star and the sauce coats it lightly. Another mistake is cream. No Italian cook adds cream to amatriciana. If the pan looks dry, add pasta water instead.

Where to Eat Amatriciana in Italy

You can eat the dish across Lazio, and Rome is the easiest place to start. Pick a small trattoria away from the main sights. Look for a short menu that lists the Roman pastas. If you plan a first visit, our Rome travel guide for first-time visitors and our 5-day Rome itinerary will help you build the days around lunch and dinner.

If you want to taste the sauce at its source, you can also visit Amatrice itself. Check opening dates with the local tourist office before you go, as small towns in the hills keep their own hours.

Serving and Storing

Serve amatriciana in warm bowls with a glass of dry red wine from Lazio or a crisp white. A plain green salad makes a good side. The sauce keeps in the fridge for up to 3 days, so you can make a double batch and freeze half. Reheat it gently and cook fresh pasta each time. Never keep the pasta and sauce together, as the noodles go soft.

For a heartier Sunday meal, follow this pasta with a slow-cooked sauce such as our authentic Bolognese. The two dishes show how different Italy’s regions can be, even when both start with tomato and pasta.

Amatriciana Recipe FAQs

What is the difference between amatriciana and carbonara?

Amatriciana uses tomato and chilli, while carbonara uses egg and black pepper. Both start with guanciale and finish with pecorino romano.

Can I use pancetta instead of guanciale in an amatriciana recipe?

Yes, pancetta is the closest swap. The sauce will be a little leaner and less sweet, so add a small splash of olive oil to the pan if the fat runs short.

Does authentic amatriciana have onion or garlic?

Most traditional Roman cooks leave both out. Some home cooks add a little onion, but the base is guanciale, tomato, pecorino and chilli.

Which pasta is best for amatriciana?

Spaghetti and bucatini are the most common choices. Rigatoni also works well, because the tubes catch the sauce and the pieces of guanciale.

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