Civita di Bagnoregio: Italy’s Dying City Still Standing

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Standing on a plateau of crumbling volcanic rock in the province of Viterbo, Lazio, Civita di Bagnoregio is one of Italy’s most unusual places. It does not connect to the surrounding land by road. There are no cars, no deliveries, no emergency vehicles getting through unless they walk. The only way in is a 300-metre pedestrian bridge, and when the weather turns, even that can feel precarious.

The locals call it La Città che Muore. The Dying City. That name was not dreamed up by a tourism board. It came from the people who lived there, who watched the rock erode year after year, and understood what that meant.

A Village Built on Volcanic Rock

Civita di Bagnoregio sits on a plateau of tufa — a soft volcanic rock that forms when ash deposits compact over time. Tufa is easy to carve, which made it attractive to early settlers. The Etruscans established a community here over 2,500 years ago. Later, the Romans used it as a trading post on the route between Rome and the north.

The problem with tufa is that it erodes. Rain, wind, and the general passing of centuries eat away at it slowly but steadily. Over the centuries, the plateau has shrunk. Landslides have taken whole sections of the cliff. The roads that once connected Civita to Bagnoregio and the valley below are long gone. They were swallowed by collapses that happened centuries before modern Italy existed.

The pedestrian bridge that connects Civita to Bagnoregio today was built in the 1960s. Before that, access was via a narrow path cut into the rock face. The concrete footbridge opened Civita to visitors in a practical way. But it also marked an admission: permanent road access was finished.

Why People Stayed

Given the circumstances, the question is not why people left Civita. That is obvious. The question is why anyone remained at all.

At its peak in the medieval period, Civita had several thousand residents. It had churches, a market, a governing structure — a proper town by any measure. The gradual erosion and a series of earthquakes — particularly a severe one in 1695 — accelerated the departure of most residents. By the 20th century, the population had fallen to a few dozen.

Today, only around 10 to 20 people live in Civita year-round. In summer that number rises temporarily as family members return and tourism picks up. But through winter, the village is largely empty. The stone houses stand, many of them restored or maintained by part-time residents who use Civita as a second home.

The ones who stay full-time tend to be older residents who grew up there. Some have refused to leave on principle. Others have nowhere else to go, or no desire to. There is something striking about meeting a person who has chosen to remain in a place the world considers finished.

2,500 Years of Continuous Occupation

The Etruscans were the first to build here. Their influence is still visible throughout the town. The street layout, the cave systems carved beneath the village, and the Porta Santa Maria all point to Etruscan origins. That main gate, made of tufa blocks, is one of the most intact Etruscan gates in central Italy.

After the Etruscans came the Romans. Then the medieval period saw the village reach its greatest size. The Church of San Donato, which stands in the central piazza, dates to the 12th century, though it was rebuilt and modified over the centuries following earthquake damage. The square itself is small — perhaps 30 metres across — but it feels remarkably intact, as though someone put the village in a display case.

That feeling of preservation is partly real and partly illusion. The buildings standing today are mostly from the medieval period, with later repairs. But the ground beneath them is still eroding. Engineers have installed reinforcement structures on parts of the plateau cliff face. UNESCO has recognised Civita di Bagnoregio on its list of endangered heritage sites, and there are ongoing discussions at national and EU level about long-term preservation funding.

What a Visit to Civita Is Actually Like

Crossing the bridge is the defining moment of a visit. It is 300 metres long, exposed to wind, and has a steady incline upwards. The views take in the valleys of the Tiber and the Calanchi. It’s a landscape of eroded ravines that looks more like the American south-west than central Italy.

Once through the gate, the village is very small. You can walk the entire perimeter in under 20 minutes. There are a handful of restaurants and a few gift shops. Streets of stone — often uneven — run quiet except in peak summer when tourist groups arrive. The piazza forms the social centre, anchored by a stone well that has served the village for centuries.

There is an admission fee to enter Civita. As of recent years this has been around €5 per person in summer, with a reduced rate in the off-season. The fee contributes to maintenance of the bridge and reinforcement work on the plateau.

How to Get to Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio is not on a main train line. The nearest town with a rail connection is Orvieto, about 30 kilometres away. From Orvieto you can take a regional bus or drive to Bagnoregio. Once in Bagnoregio town, the viewpoint and the bridge entrance are roughly a 10-minute walk.

By car from Rome, the drive is around 1.5 hours. Take the A1 motorway heading north and then follow smaller roads via Viterbo or Montefiascone. Parking is available in Bagnoregio town.

The walk across the bridge takes 10 to 15 minutes at a steady pace. There is no lift or alternative access route. The village streets inside are cobbled and uneven — worth knowing before you go if anyone in your group has mobility considerations.

The Best Time to Visit

Spring and autumn are the best seasons. From March to May and from September to November, the crowds are thinner and the light is better for seeing the tufa cliffs. Summer brings the highest visitor numbers — particularly July and August, when Italian families visit on day trips from Rome and the village becomes noticeably busy.

Weekday visits are significantly quieter than weekends. For the quietest experience, come on a Tuesday or Wednesday morning in April. You’ll find something close to the silence the year-round residents know.

Most visitors spend around half a day here. It works well as a day trip from Rome, with the drive taking around two hours each way. You can also include it as a stop on a route through Lazio towards Umbria and Orvieto.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Civita di Bagnoregio worth visiting?

Yes. There is nowhere else quite like it in Italy. A medieval village perched on an eroding volcanic plateau, reachable only by a 300-metre footbridge, is a genuinely singular experience. It rewards visitors who take their time rather than rushing through.

How long should I spend in Civita di Bagnoregio?

Most visitors spend two to three hours. The village is small — you can walk the perimeter in under 20 minutes — but the piazza, the church, and the Calanchi views all deserve time. Factor in the bridge crossing each way and a stop for lunch or coffee if the season allows.

Is Civita di Bagnoregio accessible for people with mobility issues?

Not easily. The footbridge has a steady incline, and the village streets are cobbled and uneven. There is no lift or vehicle access. If mobility is a concern, the viewpoint in Bagnoregio town offers a clear view of Civita without crossing the bridge.

Civita di Bagnoregio has been occupied for 2,500 years. The rock it stands on has been crumbling for centuries. Whether it is still standing in another hundred years is genuinely uncertain. That is not a selling point — it is simply the truth about this place.

Image: Map of Italy archive

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