The Sicilian Hilltop Town That Has Seduced Travellers Since Ancient Greece

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There is a town in Sicily where you can sit in a 2,300-year-old theatre and watch Mount Etna smoking on the horizon. That town is Taormina. And it has been doing this to people for a very long time.

Goethe wrote about it. DH Lawrence lived here. Richard Wagner came to visit and never wanted to leave. Once you see why, you will understand them all completely.

The Theatre That Changed Every Visitor’s Understanding of Beauty

The Teatro Antico di Taormina is one of the best-preserved ancient theatres in the world. The Greeks built it in the 3rd century BC. The Romans later expanded it, adjusting it for gladiatorial contests.

What makes it extraordinary is not just the theatre itself. It is what you see from the seats.

Directly in front of you, the Ionian Sea stretches to the horizon. To the left, Mount Etna rises over 3,300 metres into the sky, often trailing a curl of smoke. No stage designer in history has ever matched this backdrop.

The theatre still hosts concerts and events today. Even when it is empty, walking through the stone archways and sitting in the ancient seats is something you will not forget.

The Town That Has Never Stopped Being Famous

Taormina sits on a ridge 200 metres above the sea. It was already old when the Greeks arrived. The Siculi, an ancient Italic people, were here first.

Over the centuries it attracted conquerors, artists, writers, and aristocrats. In the 19th century, wealthy Europeans made it a stop on the Grand Tour — the journey that was considered essential for a proper education.

By the early 20th century, it had a reputation as one of the most beautiful places in Europe. That reputation has never changed. Taormina has simply always been this good.

Corso Umberto — The Street That Is the Town

Taormina’s main street is the Corso Umberto, a long pedestrian lane running through the heart of the old town. It connects Porta Messina to the north and Porta Catania to the south.

Walking from one end to the other takes about twenty minutes — though most people take much longer. Along the way you pass medieval palaces, baroque churches, ceramic shops, and small piazzas.

The Piazza IX Aprile opens out suddenly on the left, with a terrace looking straight out over the sea. Many visitors stop here for a coffee and do not move for an hour. This is not a failure of willpower. It is the correct response.

Sicily rewards slow travellers. Taormina does this more than anywhere else on the island. The more you linger, the more you notice.

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The Bay Below — and Isola Bella

The bay directly below Taormina is one of the most photographed stretches of coastline in Sicily. At its heart is Isola Bella — a tiny island connected to the shore by a narrow strip of sand.

The water around it turns extraordinary colours in summer. Turquoise close to the shore, deep blue further out. Clear enough to see the bottom in depths that would normally hide everything.

You reach the bay by cable car from the town above. The descent itself is worth the fare — the views open up completely as you drop towards the water.

Isola Bella is a nature reserve. The island is open to visitors during set hours. It is small enough to walk around in ten minutes and beautiful enough to stay on for the rest of the day.

When to Visit — and the One Thing Most Visitors Get Wrong

The best months for Taormina are May, June, September, and October. The weather is warm, the light is golden, and the tourist numbers are manageable.

July and August are busy. The town is small. The streets are narrow. The beauty is unchanged but the experience is very different from a quieter visit.

The one thing most visitors get wrong: they come for a single day and think that is enough. It is not. Taormina rewards people who stay at least two nights. The town changes completely in the early morning and late evening, when the day-trippers have left and the streets belong to the residents.

Taormina is also an excellent base for exploring eastern Sicily. Catania, less than an hour to the south, is one of the most underrated cities on the island — volcanic stone streets, a magnificent fish market, and a fraction of Taormina’s crowds. And if you have another day, the ancient Greek temples at Agrigento’s Valle dei Templi are among the most remarkable sites in all of Sicily.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best time to visit Taormina, Sicily?

May, June, September, and October offer the best combination of warm weather and manageable crowds. July and August are peak season — hot, busy, and significantly more expensive. Spring and early autumn let you enjoy the town at its most relaxed.

How do you get to Taormina from Catania airport?

The easiest way is by train from Catania Centrale station to Taormina-Giardini, which takes around 45 minutes. From the station, a bus or taxi runs up to the hilltop town. Driving is also straightforward via the A18 motorway, taking about 40 minutes.

Is Taormina worth visiting as a day trip?

Yes, but an overnight stay is far better. Day-trippers arrive mid-morning and leave by late afternoon. If you stay even one night, you experience the town in the early morning and after dark — which is when Taormina is at its most magical and belongs entirely to the people who live there.

What should I not miss in Taormina?

The Teatro Antico is essential — try to visit at opening time before tour groups arrive. The walk along the Corso Umberto with a stop at Piazza IX Aprile is a must. Take the cable car down to Isola Bella at least once, even if you do not swim. And sit somewhere for a long coffee and just watch the town go about its life.

You Might Also Enjoy

• Why Catania Is the Sicilian City Most Visitors Miss — and Shouldn’t
• Why Sicily Has Better-Preserved Greek Temples Than Greece Itself
• The Italian Island Between Sicily and Africa That Nobody Puts on Their Itinerary

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