Why Gubbio’s Ancient Race Still Moves Grown Men to Tears Every May

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Every year on the 15th of May, the stone streets of Gubbio fill with people who have come from all over Italy — and all over the world — to watch grown men weep.

Not from exhaustion. Not from injury. From something far older than either.

A Medieval Town With an Extraordinary Secret

Gubbio is a medieval town in Umbria, roughly 40 kilometres north of Perugia. Its grey stone buildings are stacked against the slopes of Monte Ingino, and its streets look much as they did five centuries ago.

Most visitors come for the architecture, the history, and the extraordinary quiet of a town that tourism has not yet overwhelmed.

But once a year, on the 15th of May, Gubbio becomes the site of one of Italy’s most spectacular and least-known traditions: the Festa dei Ceri.

What Are the Ceri?

The word ceri means candles. But these are no ordinary candles.

Each cero is a massive wooden structure, roughly five metres tall, shaped like an octagonal prism. On top of each one stands the statue of a saint. Three saints, three teams, three ceri.

Sant’Ubaldo leads for the masons — he is Gubbio’s patron saint. San Giorgio rides for the merchants. Sant’Antonio for the farmers. Each wooden tower weighs around 280 kilograms. And the job of each team is to carry their cero through the town’s steep, cobblestoned streets — at full speed.

The Race Through the Streets

The race begins in Piazza Grande — Gubbio’s magnificent main square, which seems to hang suspended from the hillside. It ends at the Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo, high on Monte Ingino above the town.

The streets are steep. They are narrow. They twist without warning. And still, the teams run — twenty or more men per cero, their shoulders braced beneath the weight, their feet finding purchase on stone worn smooth by centuries of feet before them.

Crowds press against the walls. Children are lifted onto shoulders. Old men who have watched this race for eighty years stand quietly in doorways, as if they already know what is about to happen.

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Why Sant’Ubaldo Always Wins

Here is where the Festa dei Ceri becomes something deeper than a race.

Sant’Ubaldo’s team always arrives first. Always. It has never been otherwise, not in all the centuries this event has run.

Not because the rules say so. But because it must be. Sant’Ubaldo is the protector of Gubbio. For his team to arrive second would be unthinkable — a bad omen for the town’s entire year. The race is not a competition. It is a devotional act disguised as a spectacle.

That is what brings the tears. When Sant’Ubaldo’s cero reaches the basilica and is carried through the doors, men who have trained for months — men who grew up carrying this weight and who will one day pass it to their sons — stand in the street and cry. Not from relief. From belonging.

Nine Centuries Without a Break

The Festa dei Ceri has been running since at least 1160 CE, the year Sant’Ubaldo died on the 15th of May. Some historians believe the roots go deeper still, to pre-Christian spring rituals absorbed into the Catholic calendar.

Nine centuries. Wars, plagues, famines, foreign occupations — and the race still ran.

In recent years, even when public events were restricted elsewhere in Italy, Gubbio found a way. The race ran because the town could not imagine it not running. The Festa dei Ceri is not a historical re-enactment. It is not designed for tourists. It is something Gubbio does for itself — a promise renewed every year on the same date, on the same streets, to the same saints.

The rest of Italy has festivals. Gubbio has something closer to a heartbeat. Umbria’s other remarkable towns — like the underground city of Orvieto — each hold their own extraordinary traditions, but the Ceri stands apart.

How to Visit Gubbio for the Festa dei Ceri

The nearest airports are Perugia and Florence. From Perugia, Gubbio is around 50 minutes by road. There is no direct train — buses run from Perugia and Fossato di Vico.

If you plan to attend, arrive on the 14th of May. The evening before is the alzata — the formal raising of the ceri in Piazza Grande. The emotion starts here, hours before the race. Accommodation fills weeks in advance.

On the morning of the 15th, a religious procession moves through the town. The race itself takes place at midday. No ticket is needed. You simply stand on the street, press yourself against a stone wall, and watch 900 years of history go running past.

If you can’t make it in May, Gubbio is worth visiting at any time of year. The medieval centre, the Roman theatre, and the views from Monte Ingino (reachable by cable car) make it a rewarding day trip from Perugia or a stop on a wider Umbria itinerary. For another extraordinary Umbrian festival, the nearby town of Spello is equally unforgettable: every summer, Spello carpets its streets in flowers for its own ancient tradition.

Italy has no shortage of festivals. But only Gubbio has the Ceri — and only the Ceri has run, unbroken, for nearly a thousand years. For more on Italy’s patron saint traditions, read about the miracle that still stops Naples twice a year.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the Festa dei Ceri and when should I arrive in Gubbio?

The Festa dei Ceri takes place every year on the 15th of May in Gubbio, Umbria. Arrive on the evening of the 14th to catch the alzata (raising of the ceri) in Piazza Grande — this is when the atmosphere is most intense and accommodation still manageable.

How do I get to Gubbio from Rome or Florence?

From Florence, Gubbio is roughly two hours by car or bus via Perugia. From Rome, allow around two and a half hours by road. There is no direct train — take a train to Fossato di Vico or Perugia and connect by bus. Driving is the most flexible option.

Where is the best place to watch the Ceri race in Gubbio?

Piazza Grande is the most dramatic spot — the start of the race, where the full spectacle unfolds. The narrow streets leading up the hill offer a closer, more visceral view as the ceri pass at speed. Arrive early and claim a spot against a wall or on a raised step.

Is Gubbio worth visiting outside of the Festa dei Ceri?

Yes — Gubbio is one of Umbria’s finest medieval towns year-round. The Palazzo dei Consoli, the Roman theatre, and the views from Monte Ingino (reachable by cable car) make it a rewarding day trip from Perugia or a stop on a wider Umbria itinerary.

You Might Also Enjoy

If the Festa dei Ceri has sparked your interest in Umbria and Italy’s extraordinary living traditions, these articles are worth a read:

• The Ancient Umbrian Village That Covers Its Streets in Flowers Every Summer — Spello’s Infiorata, another living tradition that tourists rarely know about
• Why Naples Falls Silent Three Times a Year — The Story of San Gennaro — Italy’s most dramatic patron saint miracle
• Why Orvieto Built a Whole Second City Directly Beneath the First — another Umbrian town with a story unlike any other

Plan Your Italy Trip

Ready to experience the Festa dei Ceri or explore more of Umbria? Our ultimate Italy travel guide covers everything you need — from when to visit each region to the hidden experiences most tourists never find.

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