The Ligurian coast runs along Italy’s north-western edge, where the Apennine mountains drop sharply to the sea. Three villages stand out along this stretch: Vernazza and Riomaggiore in the Cinque Terre, and Camogli on the western side of the Portofino headland. Each has its own character, but all share the same colourful houses, working harbours and steep lanes that have made this part of Italy one of the most visited in the world.
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Vernazza: Pink and Yellow Houses Around the Harbour
Vernazza sits in the middle of the five Cinque Terre villages, and many regard it as the most photogenic of the group. Pink and yellow houses crowd around a small natural harbour where fishing boats bob year-round. The village grew on a rocky headland, and its medieval watchtower — the Doria Castle — stands at the top of the promontory with views along the coast in both directions.
The harbour square, Piazza Marconi, is the social centre of Vernazza. Café tables sit beside the water, and local residents go about their daily business between the tourist crowds. In peak season (July and August), the village can feel overwhelmed. Early mornings and evenings are noticeably quieter.
Walking is how most people arrive. The Blue Trail (Sentiero Azzurro) links all five Cinque Terre villages along the clifftop. The section from Monterosso to Vernazza is one of the most popular hikes in Italy, taking around two hours through terraced vineyards above the sea. Trains also connect the villages; from La Spezia to Vernazza takes about 15 minutes.
Vernazza has a beach — a small strip of sand and rock in the corner of the harbour. People swim here throughout the warmer months. The water is clear and the setting is hard to fault.
Practical details:
- Entry to the Cinque Terre National Park trails requires a pass (the Cinque Terre Card), which also covers train travel between the villages
- Vernazza station is a short walk from the harbour square
- Accommodation in the village is limited — book well ahead for summer visits
- Eating on the waterfront is expensive; the lanes behind the piazza have cheaper options
Riomaggiore: Laundry, Boats and Tall Coloured Houses
Riomaggiore is the southernmost village in the Cinque Terre and where most visitors arrive first, coming from La Spezia by train. It is also the most lived-in of the five, which makes it feel less like a set piece and more like a functioning community.
The houses here are tall and narrow, stacked up the valley walls in shades of orange, red, yellow and terracotta. On the balconies above the small boat harbour, laundry hangs in the open air — sheets, work clothes, drying washing. The boats in the harbour are working vessels. Fishing has reduced here over recent decades, but it has not disappeared entirely.
The main street, Via Colombo, runs from the train station down to the harbour. It is short but steep. Along it are local shops, a bakery, restaurants and bars. The castello at the top of the village was built in 1340 as a defensive fortification and now hosts occasional cultural events, with views over the rooftops to the sea.
The path between Riomaggiore and Manarola was once the Via dell’Amore — a famous coastal walkway closed after a landslide in 2012. Sections have since been reopened; check the Cinque Terre National Park website for current access conditions before visiting.
Practical details:
- Riomaggiore is around 10 minutes from La Spezia by regional train
- The harbour area has rock platforms for swimming in calm weather
- The village has more accommodation options than some of the other Cinque Terre villages
- Evening visits, after the day-trip crowds have left, give a better sense of the place
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Camogli: Painted Facades and a Working Harbour
Camogli lies about 25 kilometres north-west of the Cinque Terre, on the western side of the Portofino headland, and it has a very different atmosphere. Bigger than the Cinque Terre villages, it has a year-round population of around 5,000 and a working harbour that handles fishing boats and small commercial vessels.
The waterfront is the defining feature. A long promenade runs beside the sea, and behind it rise very tall, narrow houses painted in shades of ochre, pale green, terracotta and cream. The facades are decorated using a technique called trompe l’œil — painted windows, pilasters and balconies that look three-dimensional from a distance but are entirely flat. The effect is unusual and striking, particularly in the afternoon light.
The name Camogli is sometimes said to derive from “Casa dei Mogli” — house of the wives — a reference to the fishing community where women ran daily life while the men were at sea for months at a time. It was once one of the most significant fishing ports on the Ligurian coast. The Museo Marinaro (Maritime Museum) covers the town’s seafaring history in detail and is well worth an hour.
Camogli is best known for the Sagra del Pesce, held every second Sunday in May. Fish are fried in a giant pan on the waterfront — several metres in diameter — and given away free to everyone present. The event has taken place since 1952 and draws large crowds from across Liguria.
The beaches at Camogli are pebble rather than sand. The main beach runs in a long arc below the promenade and is less crowded than beaches further along the Riviera.
Getting to Camogli:
- By train from Genoa Brignole: around 25 minutes on the regional line to Camogli–San Fruttuoso
- By train from La Spezia: change at Genoa; total journey around 1.5 hours
- By ferry from Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure in summer months
- By car: parking is limited in the centre; use the designated car parks above the village
The nearby Abbey of San Fruttuoso is reachable only by boat or on foot from Camogli. Offshore from the abbey sits a submerged bronze statue, the Cristo degli Abissi (Christ of the Depths), placed on the seabed in 1954 and visible to snorkellers in clear conditions.
When to Visit
May and June are the best months for the Ligurian coast. The weather is warm and settled, the light is good, and the summer crowds have not yet arrived. September is also excellent — the sea is warm after summer, and the villages are noticeably quieter after the August peak.
July and August bring the largest visitor numbers, particularly to the Cinque Terre. Trails, villages and trains can feel congested, and accommodation prices are at their highest. If you visit in high summer, book well in advance and aim to be at the main viewpoints early in the morning.
Winter is quieter, and some restaurants and accommodation close, but the Ligurian climate is mild compared to most of northern Italy. The villages have a different character in the off-season, with the everyday life of permanent residents more visible.
Getting Around
The coastal train line connects La Spezia, all five Cinque Terre villages, Genoa and Camogli. It is frequent, cheap and reliable. The Cinque Terre Card gives unlimited train travel between the five villages and covers national park trail access; it can be purchased at La Spezia station or at any of the village stations.
For Camogli, regional trains from Genoa Brignole run throughout the day. Summer ferries connect Camogli with Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure and San Fruttuoso — a useful option for avoiding road traffic on the peninsula.
Driving is possible but rarely the most practical choice. Roads are narrow, parking in the villages is scarce, and the train covers most destinations efficiently.
What to Eat
Focaccia genovese is the standout local food — a thick, oily flatbread sold by the slice in bakeries throughout the region. It is cheap, filling and very good. Farinata, a chickpea flour pancake baked in a wood-fired oven, is another local speciality worth trying.
Seafood is central to the cooking here. Anchovies (acciughe) are harvested along this coast and appear in various forms: marinated in oil and vinegar, fried, or worked into pasta sauces. Trenette al pesto is the signature pasta — flat ribbons served with Ligurian pesto, which differs from versions found elsewhere in Italy. The local basil variety, smaller-leaved and less pungent than Tuscan basil, makes for a lighter, fresher sauce.
Eating on the waterfront in Vernazza or Riomaggiore is expensive by Italian standards. Moving one or two streets back from the water brings prices down considerably. In Camogli, the restaurants along the promenade offer reasonable value given the setting.
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